khmer sources

Past creeping liana and upturned millipedes we wander; down a close and dark jungle path. From above, five-year-old Xy Hong is a large moving hat. Together with his sister Xu Kim Huy, 15, and friend Sophon, 9, Hong is leading the way across Bamboo Island to show my friend and I the "big guns". He and Sophon are sharing a too small pair of blue flip flops and when he’s not wearing them he runs ahead leaping and shrieking over the writhing diplopods.

We soon emerge into the light and are directed to the hardware, "soo-a s’day-ing" a scantily clad toothless man who might be the caretaker, or quite possibly some sort of Man Friday.
Well, the Russian guns are indeed big, so we admire them for a time as it appears we ought, whilst our guides climb trees and bag green fruit. Of course I can make no sense of the Cyrillic signs, and once you’ve looked at big guns, well you’ve seen ‘em all, so I call out to ask Kim Huy what is "over there" beyond the flowering hibiscus.

As is shortly revealed, "over there" happens to be the most gorgeous beach in all of Cambodia—believe me. We are immediately, and completely, enchanted. To the left, there is a long beach with leaning palms; to the right, further beach and a rocky outcrop at the far end. And to both sides: nobody.

The beach is at the southern end of Bamboo Island (Koh Russei) in Ream National Park; it is a barely-touched stretch of caramel-colored sand, storybook seashells and complete solitude, so I should hardly be promoting it. Here on Bamboo, a once Cambodian Navy base, there are no crabs for sale; there are no walking beauty salons; there is no fruit to buy. There is just you and the sea.

My friend and I sit beneath the trees, a rather astonishing Angkorian sandcastle is constructed; we read and doze; swim and doze a little more,
then walk back to our bungalow for an evening aperitif of Chang on the other side of the island.
Friday has vanished.

Kuy Sun rents land on the northern side of Bamboo from the navy. He’s built 10 bungalows, a bar and a home for family members, all close to the water’s edge with views of other nearby National Park islands. Sokha, 25, appears to be the man in charge—he’s Kuy Sun’s brother—he tells me there are 30 people living permanently on the island and that there are 10 dogs; chickens, ducks and cows also lurk about the place.
The island has good toilet and shower facilities and the generator comes on when it’s dark and goes off about eleven, depending on what’s going on at the bar. The bar has a full menu, offering the usual beach fare: omelets, French fries, curries and soups. Breakfast, including good coffee, is available and can be delivered to your bungalow verandah.

There is fabulously little to do on Koh Russei. You can swim all day, you can read in a hammock in the morning, you can ask Kim Huy for a manicure at the bar and the charming Kim Lay, 22, will put your hair in a French-plait (the fee: a packet of dried jackfruit purchased at Kim Huy’s shop). Arrange to go on a fishing boat for the day; construct useful things, or play volleyball with the fishermen—a number of shirtless sarong-wrapped anglers play during the day.
That is the island in a conch shell: a perfectly simple and beautifully surprising piece of Cambodia.

Just don’t go all at once.
Travel details:

- Boats can be arranged from the Sihanoukville end or you can drive directly into Ream National Park and get a boat from there (we asked a local restaurant owner to organize one for us). The turn-off to the Park is on your left 15km before Sihanoukville. The boat trip takes about 40 minutes from Ream and a bit under an hour from Sihanoukville.

- Remember to take the following: insect repellent, coils, soap, sun block, toilet paper, any snacks you fancy, extra liquor if there is a large number of you (the bar could run dry!), a hammock, a bed sheet, and a first aid kit might be a good idea. Bungalows cost $5 per night and have a double mattress and mosquito net.

- Prices of meals and drinks are about the same as what you’d pay on the beach in Sihanoukville.

- Cooking your own food is not altogether discouraged, but just support the local economy as much as you can.

- If you’re staying in Sihanoukville, the island is worth a day trip.