khmer sources

For decades, the towering Koh Ker temple has hidden itself in impenetrable jungle, inaccessible to the prying eyes of either international or Cambodian tourists. Now, a new road being chiseled towards it, step by step, inch by inch, is nearing completion, and this paragon of ancient architecture may soon be flooded with visitors. Previously, even researchers have had trouble reaching the 10th century brick, laterite and sandstone temple complex built as an alternative capital by King Jayavarman IV when the capital at Angkor fell into a state of turmoil. It stands in mountainous terrain, self sufficient, its jungles rich in sources of food and water, its artificial lakes, or barays, full, making it a perfect refuge for a king fighting for political survival. Although it remains a challenge to negotiate the 140 kilometers northeast from Siem Reap, or the 80 kilometers southwest from Preah Vihear to the temples, with the new road it is vastly easier than ever before.

Koh Ker was once the second largest Cambodian capital city after Soht Borak (Angkor) and boasts a collection of names befitting a royal residence. The original name of this city is Chohk Koki or Chhoahk Kiek. In Khmer, it is simply called Srah Koki, which translates to 'Koki Pool', and
apparently named for groves of koki pines that once grew here, but in later inscriptions it is called by its modern name of Kok Ker.

In official inscriptions it is also called Lingkiek Borak (Linga City). Linga are the phallic symbols of fertility that play such an important role in Brahmanism, and as this would suggest, Jayavarman IV dedicated the complex to Hindu gods, specifically Shiva, when he began construction on the main temple in around 928AD. The main temple covers an area of two kilometers square, and forms the heart of a vast collection of temples which were once thought to number around 86, according to the National Patrimony Department's first edition publication on the area, but are now known to be even more prolific-just how many there are is still undecided as more temples continue to be discovered in the dense tropical jungle. For instance, initially there were thought to be only three Linga city temples. Now, ten temples are known and researchers are reluctant to discount the possibility of more.

"Koh Ker temple was built by King Jayavarman IV between 921 and 944 AD. He later built a temporary city between 924-946AD called Chohk Koki or Lingkiek Borak," explains Ourng Von, director of the National Patrimony Department of the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts. "The king left Angkor city to build the Linga city at presentday Koh Ker because of a looming domestic crisis between members of his royal family. A nephew named Preah Baht Hasvarman I, probably too young to successfully hold the throne, was emerging as a pretender to it. Koh Ker architecture is known as the 'big temple building' or 'kampeng temple' (stone wall temple) and is dedicated to Brahmanism in the Shiva doctrine.

The main temple boasts verandas reaching up seven stories to a height of about 35 meters, but it was once even larger and grander. If we extrapolate from the architectural structure that remains intact in the upper part of the temple, we can conclude that the temple once had at least has one more level of verandas and a large fort at its peak, so it probably once reached a height of around 45 meters. "A particularly striking aspect of the design is the statue of a huge garuda, or mythical bird, that supports a huge throne room veranda atop the temple.

It was here that the sacred yoni of Neang Oma and linga of Shiva were housed, right at the temple's peak." To reach the temple's summit, visitors need to brave a 30-meter tall, rather rickety wooden staircase. This was constructed only recently, and gaping holes between each stair mean it is not for the fainthearted. At the top, an icy breeze envelopes modern intruders, chilling the body to the heart, and the sky is open. The temple towers above the jungle, and visitors are left to look down upon the now supplicant jungle, once so imposing from below.

On the left, the sacred Kulen Mountain and the Dong Rek mountain range are clearly visible. The view leaves no doubt as to why the ancestors chose this site for their a new and mighty capital. "The structure people think of when they think of Koh Ker is the pyramid of the main temple," says Ourng Von. "The construction materials are a mixture of baked bricks, laterite and sandstone, and the style is so unique from any other contemporary structures that Khmer archeologists have named the temples as the 'Koh Ker style'.

Chronologically it is the fourth of ten styles to emerge from the reigns of the kings of the Angkor period; Kulen, Preah Koh, Bakheng, Koh Ker, Preah Roup,
Banteay Srey, Klaeng, Bapuon, Angkor Wat and Bayon styles. "Most masterpieces of Jayavarman IV's reign are single temples with big, tall towers-perhaps because the builders wanted to show that King Jayavarman IV was a very influential and solid king. The temples we classify as masterpieces from this period are Prasat Linga, Prasat Andohng (the temple of the well), Prasat Krahom (red temple), Prasat Khmao (black temple), Prasat Prahm (the temple of five) and Prasat Domrei (elephant temple), and they all lie in this one area around Koh Ker. Because of the long history of wars in modern times, national patrimony and arts have been stolen and destroyed. Most importantly, we have not had a good road to the site before now. Many of the smaller temples do not have a satisfactory road access and in some cases whole villages out here do not have passable roads between them. Once we have roads, we can explore, preserve and protect the temples much more effectively, and this is very important in preserving our culture."