khmer sources

A winding path snakes up the emerald slopes of Phnom Dosh Kramom, linking a spirit shrine at the summit with a smaller sanctuary at the base. Powerful mystical beings lurk in the azure meadows, whispering each time the wind blows. Halfway up, water tumbles over jagged rocks, a place revered by ethnic Phnong.

Many believe that magical spirits dwelling in the lush mountain grasses protect them, ensuring happiness, safety and good health.

"Dosh Kramom Mountain is the only place in Mondulkiri that both Khmer and Phnong people revere," said Soun Phaly, Director of the Culture Department in Mondulkiri.

Many go to Phnom Dosh Kramom to pray for success in business, or for family happiness. Pilgrims promise to make an offering, often a pig or a buffalo if the spirits will help them. The prayer is a kind of contract. If the spirits are happy with the promised offering, they will provide what is asked for, but like any contract one must not renege on the deal.

"We Phnong always pray at Dosh Kramom Mountain when we plant our rice crop in May," said Nheach Rav, 62, a Phnong Village Elder. "If we ask the spirits to provide us with 4000Kg of rice and we harvest that amount, we must give the spirits we what promised. If we break our promise and do not offer them anything, they will be angry and will make our families ill. Even if we go to a doctor, we will not recover until we give the spirits what we promised them."

The appearance of the mountain is part of its significance. It resembles the ample bosom of a young mother, an image with strong fertility connotations.
"The name is derived from the Khmer for ‘a single breast’ because when we see it from other mountains of equal or greater height, the mountain looks like the breast of a sleeping girl, lying on her back looking up at the sky," said Soun Phaly.

Though the mountain’s official name is Phnom Dosh Kramom, in the local dialect the mountain is called Youk Srosh Phlom, as the Phnong words cannot be translated into Khmer. The Phnong and Khmer names have different meanings. The Phnong version is derived from a well known local legend and is formed from three elements - a girl’s name, Plom, a man’s name, Srosh, and Youk, which means the magical and immortal feminine spirit of the mountain.
Sroun Plaly said that, through continuing belief in the legend, Phnong people think of the area around the mountain as their homeland and feel safe there.

"Even though we can not see them, we think the mountain spirits protect the people of Mondulkiri province," agreed Village Elder Nheach Rav.
The story is still accepted by the modern generation.

"I really believe in Youk Srosh Phlom legend," said Doc Rav, a young ethnic Phnong. "I heard the story from my tribal chief and I believe it, because I always get what I pray for. I never break my promise to the spirits."

Dosh Kramom Mountain was recognised as an official tourist site by the government on 24th January, 2004. Now, foreign and Khmer tourists come to enjoy the scenic views, as well as pray for good fortune. As it is only one kilometre from the provincial capital, Senmonorom, tourists can see Phnom Dosh Kramom from the airport.

"Tourists who come to visit Mondulkiri should definitely go to Youk Srosh Phlom mountain to pray for good health and prosperity," said Thou Sonn, former Governor of Mondulkiri. "Just don’t promise the spirits a buffalo and then give them a chicken, otherwise you might have a problem."

According to the legend, long ago, a Phnong man named Sdosh fell in love with a Phnong girl named Phlom. Declaring their love for one another, they decided to get married. According to Phnong tradition, two weeks before the marriage there must be a Pithy Pchab Peak (engagement ceremony). The groom must find engagement gifts and, with the happy time approaching, Phlom’s family prepared these. The harvest season was nearly due too, so both families were very busy. Phlom was delighted, as her marriage and the end of the harvest season meant there would be two parties after the year’s hard labour.

Phnong tradition dictates that, five days before a marriage, the bride’s family must perform a Pithy Sensrov (rice spirit ceremony) to ensure good fortune. Phlom’s father sent her to get some water from the river to dilute the rice wine used in the ceremony. Much time elapsed and Phlom still did not return. Her concerned family went with Srosh to look for her at the river, but she was nowhere to be seen. Only her gourd water vessels remained. Her family would not believe she had been killed by animals, or had drowned, so they performed the Pithy Haov Praleung (calling back spirit ceremony) because they believed she had been led astray in the forest by evil spirits, and would soon return.

For 15 days, Srosh was sick with worry. On the 16th day, his household celebrated their own Pithy Sensrov (rice spirit ceremony), so his parents sent him to cut the bamboo from the forest. Wending his way home, a bunch of bamboo tied across his back, he heard soft footfalls and, when he turned, his fiancé was walking calmly towards him.

"My darling! I’ve missed you so much, where have you been?" Srosh cried in disbelief.

"I know you have been looking for me," wept Phlom. "I heard your calls, but the old women at Chiho Chihkor mountain did not allow me to answer."

She explained that she was living with the two old enchantresses who used their magic to protect the Phnong people, Chiho and Chihkor. She persuaded Srosh to return to the mountain with her.
Now, Srosh had vanished as well and his family were grief stricken. After his disappearance, Srosh’s family performed another Pithy Haov Praleung, appealing to the forest guardian spirit to stop hiding him, seemingly to no avail. The families gave up hope of seeing their children again.
One day, many years later, Phlom and Srosh came to an old woman in the village. They told her that they were not dead and were living on the mountain and helping to protect the people of the province.

"Now Chiho and Chihkor are too old, they can not protect the people any more," said Phlom. "They have taught Srosh and I magic so that we can protect you instead. Please take this news to our parents, and tell everyone that from now on Chiho Chihkor mountain will be called Youk Sdosh Phlom."

Sdosh and Phlom promised to personally appear at the mountain every 3 years. They also said that every 6 years, everyone must pay respects to the previous guardians of the mountain.
"From now on, if you have bad luck or health problems, come to see us at Youk Sdosh Phlom," said Sdosh. "Please bring a jar of wine, buffalo blood, pig, a cock, some charcoal, one plate of rice and a candle, and dedicate them to the spirit of the mountain, so we can ensure good health and prosperity for all Phnong people."

Ever since, people have believed that Srosh and Phlom still live in the mountain, protecting the local Phnong.