Thursday, June 26, 2008
Fowl Play in Cambodia
Once ubiquitous pastime with strong spiritual connotations, traditional cockfighting is now under attack. Though many see it as harmless fun, others think it cruel, immoral, and backward. Can this ancient sport continue to rule the roost?
Lbeng Chul Moan (cockfighting matches) have been held since the dawn of Khmer history. In ancient times, traditional games, such as cockfighting, ensured excitement and enjoyment at times of celebration and plenty.
Michael Trane Ph.D., Khmer Culture Expert for UNESCO, said archaeological evidence proves the existence of cockfighting since distant antiquity. A [3rd or 4th century AD] crystal engraved with the image of cock has been found at Angkor Borei."
Michael Trane Ph.D., Khmer Culture Expert for UNESCO, said archaeological evidence proves the existence of cockfighting since distant antiquity. A [3rd or 4th century AD] crystal engraved with the image of cock has been found at Angkor Borei."

"In the past, cockfighting was popular among high ranking officersand soldiers," said Tranet. "It used to be played as one of the symbol for reflecting players....high reputation, prosperity and power."
Besides establishing a pecking order, cockfighting was a practical way for soldiers to examine each-other’s fighting strategies, added Tranet. Traditional cockfighting has many techniques, and is as related to logic and strategy as to natural ability, he explained.
The practice remained almost unchanged until the modern era. The aged Vang Soeum, Head Monk of Phnom Penh’s Brayovongs pagoda, recalled the popularity of cockfighting during his youth.
"I remember that, from the French colonial period until the civil war, people held cockfights from the cold season up to Khmer New Year," he said.

Soeum said he thought cockfighting was popular because of a dearth in leisure activities.
"In the past, entertainment was limited," he said. "We had only Lakhoun Basak and Yike [kinds of Khmer opera], Chapey [traditional music] and some art performances. For sport we had Pradal [Khmer boxing], Boak Cham Bab [Khmer wrestling], Chul Krabei [buffalo fighting], Chul Trey Krem [fish fighting], and Lbeng Chul Moan [cockfighting].
Lbeng Chul Moan was a favourite entertainment for people during their free time because it is exciting but nobody gets hurt. It was not really for gambling as some believe. Gambling just gave enough money to cover expenses such as food. People wanted their cock to win only to improve their reputation in the village."
Traditional matches continue in rural Cambodia. In the cool shade of a thick tree near Wat Hann Chey, Kampong Cham province, an impromptu ring has been set up.
One of the audience, Mr. Nann Penh, 57, is a farmer from Stung Trang district. An expert in the sport, he has been passionate about cockfighting since his youth.
"I have travelled far from my village to come to enjoy this traditional game," he said.
Though the scene looked much as ever, Penh said the spiritual side of the sport is dying out. Magic, known as Dharmah, was once used to making a gamecock strong and to weaken its opponent.
Though the scene looked much as ever, Penh said the spiritual side of the sport is dying out. Magic, known as Dharmah, was once used to making a gamecock strong and to weaken its opponent.
"Dharmah magic was very successful in the past," said Penh. "Now however, it is not used. Everything is done on a more scientific basis. For example, we now use iron spurs and modern medicines." Penh said in his youth, only natural spurs and traditional medicines were used.
"There are many types of traditional Khmer medicine we can give to our gamecocks," he said. "Some medicines give roosters hard, scaly skin which is difficult to injure, others make them very strong. They don’t have the same quick effects of modern medicine though, so most no longer use them."
Mr. Sok Leng, owner of the famous Toul Krasaing cockfighting stage, is the modern face of the sport. He agreed that cockfighting used to be a leisure activity. Change is coming however, and the sums involved today are anything but paltry.
"Nowadays, everything is modernised," he said. "Rounds used to be measured by burning incense. Now we use digital clocks. One round is exactly 12 minutes and, if there is no clear result by round 4, the match is a draw. Winners can make big money. In the market, a good fighting cock is worth anything from $50 to $2,000 depending on its fighting style."
To keep up with demand, matches are now held throughout the year.
"We have a weekly schedule," said Leng. "Normally we have 5 to 12 pairs of cocks each day, though on holidays or weekends there are around 20 pairs."
To keep up with demand, matches are now held throughout the year.
"We have a weekly schedule," said Leng. "Normally we have 5 to 12 pairs of cocks each day, though on holidays or weekends there are around 20 pairs."
People come from many provinces to watch. There are spectators from Kandal, Takeo, and Kampong Speu, as well as many city dwellers. Motorcycles and modern cars fill the parking lot. Just like the high ranking military of Angkor, the audience is usually drawn from the upper echelons of society. Governmental, military, and NGO staff, rub shoulders with independent businessmen and land owners. Money is not the main focus however.
"People come here for entertainment, not just to gamble," claimed Leng. "Regulars do like to bet though. They normally wager between $25 and $500 on each match." 

In fact, betting on cockfighting is currently illegal under Cambodian law. Police periodically clampdown, though the sport’s popularity amongst high-ranking officials ensures raids are mostly for show. Shouted odds and crumpled banknotes at the Toul Krasaing stadium prove betting remains popular, despite its illegality.
Although the bets are large and organisation loose, Leng maintained there are few ruffled feathers.
Although the bets are large and organisation loose, Leng maintained there are few ruffled feathers.
"People who come to watch Lbeng Chul Moan trust each other," he said. "It’s like a modern village."The History of Cockfighting
Cockfighting can be traced back into prehistory. The bird has always been regarded with respect. Fighting cocks were often subject to religious worship. The ancient Syrians worshipped them as deities while ancient Greeks and Romans saw them as avatars of the gods Apollo, Mercury, and Mars.
Cockfighting can be traced back into prehistory. The bird has always been regarded with respect. Fighting cocks were often subject to religious worship. The ancient Syrians worshipped them as deities while ancient Greeks and Romans saw them as avatars of the gods Apollo, Mercury, and Mars.
Magellan claimed that, in Borneo, the bird was so sacred no-one dared eat its flesh. In South Canara, the bird was thought to ward off evil demons. In Sumatra, a large temple was built to gamecocks. Cockfighting took place within the temple and the losing cock presented to the gods. The dead bird would be soaked in rich oils and aromatic spices. Its body was burned on an altar and its ashes placed in a golden urn.
Cockfighting was also popular in the biblical near east. Breeding gamecocks for pit fighting was considered an art, and trade in these birds was profitable. In ancient Egypt cockfighting was a favourite past time. At the height of Greek civilization, Themistocles, preparing to drive away marauding Persians, held a cockfight the night before the final battle. He hoped to inspire his men, showing them the fighting cock courageous nature. Persian traders loved to gamble on cockfights. Many carried their birds everywhere to pit against others in marketplaces.
Julius Caesar was the first Roman cockfighting enthusiast. He publicised it widely, introducing it to many Roman provinces.
Julius Caesar was the first Roman cockfighting enthusiast. He publicised it widely, introducing it to many Roman provinces.
In the 16th century, cockfighting flourished in Tudor England. During King Henry VIII’s reign, cockfights were held at Whitehall palace. The game was a national sport at one point, and exclusive schools taught students gamecock breeding and training. At the height of its popularity, the clergy encouraged the sport. Church yards and even chapels were used as cockfighting arenas. The sport only declined during the reign of Queen Victoria, when it was banned by royal decree.
How cockfighting arrived in Spain is uncertain, though theories point to Phoenician traders or conquering Moors. Today, cockfighting is still a popular sport in Bilbao, Oviedo, Madrid, Barcelona, and Valencia. Filipino breeders travel to Spain to obtain thoroughbred birds for breeding. Many gamecocks in the Philippines have Spanish blood.
In the United States, famous presidents such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Andrew Jackson, and Abraham Lincoln were great fans of cockfighting. It was socially acceptable, and even encouraged, for a gentleman to breed gamecocks and be an expert on the sport. At one point, the U.S. was a centre for cockfighting activities and events. Cockfights were even held in presidential state rooms. It is rumoured the fighting-cock almost became the national emblem, though it lost by one vote to the American eagle. Cockfighting declined with the onset of the Civil War.