khmer sources

Words and photographs by Mouen NheanLooking through into the large area beyond the wall of Prasat Bakan (Bakan Temple) in Preah Vihear province, laterite stone refracts the bright sunshine, enveloping the temple in a heavenly light. The towers of the temple have long since collapsed and the hundreds of pieces of stone which once made up Bakan are now a less-than-glorious pile of rubble.

Even in this sad state—destroyed in part by war, and in part by greed—the fallen Bakan can still provide us with evidence of the once important place this temple held in the history of the Angkor period, but looters have other plans. In 2003 after a botched robbery, the central area collapsed and apsara and Buddha statues were stolen.

Prasat Bakan is off National Route 6, 75km north of the Kompong Thom town, Stoung. According to the director of the Department of Culture and Fine Arts Ros Samphal, in ancient times, Prasat Bakan, or Preah Khan Kompong Svay temple as it sometimes called, was originally named after a victorious and well-loved general: Jey Srey. This general, was a man renowned for defeating the Cham and forcing them out of the Angkor capital.

"Jey Srey is better known as Jayavarman VII," Ros says. "Angkor’s mighty architect and warrior king."

He says that while the Angkor capital was occupied by Cham soldiers, one of the then Angkorian king’s sons, Jey Srey, fled the country to live in the Champa Kingdom (now central Vietnam). While living there, he studied this neighboring Kingdom, and in particular Cham military tactics. After 14 years, he returned to his beloved Angkor and created his own army, training them in secrecy in the jungle.

"While living in the jungle," Ros says, "he completed Prasat Bakan. He also built an iron foundry where swords, knives, axes and other weapons were made by the thousands."
"Each day, more and more soldiers were enlisted for military training."

"Once trained," Ros continues, "Jey Srey led his army through Kompong Svay province [now part of Kompong Thom and Preah Vihear provinces] direct to the Angkor capital, where he fought and defeated the Cham soldiers for the liberty of his father’s kingdom."

"Jey Srey’s name held great meaning. ‘Jey’ means victory and successor; ‘Srey’ means happiness, harmony and good luck."
Deputy director of the Preah Vihear Provincial Tourism Department Kit Chanthy says Prasat Bakan was the second capital of the Angkor kingdom during the reign of King Jayavarman VII.

"King Suryavarman I began the construction of the Hindu temple Bakan between 1002 and 1050. The temple was completed by King Jayavarman VII," Kit explains. Prasat Bakan is situated in Ta Seng village, Sangkum Thmey district, Preah Vihear province."

Prasat Bakan continues to be looted, and important pieces of the temple sold to overseas collectors.

Ta Seng villagers attest to these recurrent thefts, saying that as recently as June this year, they could hear the sound of digging and stone being cut. The villagers say these looters are armed and local guards are powerless to stop them.

One Bakan guard says: "I have been threatened from looters many times, because I’ve disturbed them while they’ve been digging and cutting at the bas-relief of this temple".
"At night, I know full well that people are doing this, but I can’t stop them," the guard says. Managing director of Orchestra Travel and Tours Kong Sangvar says the temple has changed markedly in the last two years.

"Much of the bas-relief and decoration of the temple has been lost, and larger parts of the temple smashed. A lot of the damage is fairly recent," Kong says.
The Bakan guard mourns the destruction: "I’m very sad to see continual thefts at Prasat Bakan. I think the government should pay more attention to this temple."

"I’ve brought Japanese tourists to visit the temple, and when they saw the damage done, they asked ‘Why are people destroying this temple? Aren’t they Khmers themselves?’ they were shocked at the state of Bakan," Kong says.

Under Secretary of State of the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts H.E. Khim Sarith says since the beginning of 2006 the Ministry has been cooperating with provincial authorities to set up a team to protect the temple.

"However what makes this difficult are the current road conditions leading to the temple. During the rainy season we can’t even get into the area," Khim says.
"As a Khmer national, I ask any company or NGO who would like to preserve the temple and the Khmer culture, to please donate some funds to build a road to reach the Preah Bakan temple," he says. "I believe that once road access is improved, security can improve also."