Monday, May 05, 2008
The Dawn of Angkor
Standing for almost a millennium, "the greatest Angkor Wat temple was built in the first half of the 12th century by King Suryavarman II, in dedication to Preah Vishnu the god of Hinduism," said H.E. Chuch Phoeun, Secretary of State of Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts. "Angkor Wat mimics the mythical mount Meru, a holy place of Hindu gods. The main five towers represent the five peaks that stand straight facing the sky and the heavens."
The Professor of History at the Royal University of Phnom Penh, Mr. Sambo Manara said, "Angkor Wat not only represents paradise for the gods, but also symbolizes the paradise for pilgrims and those reaching this mythological place to seek happiness and prosperity in their lives."
"Besides being a place of sacred worship, Angkor Wat represents the largest library of Khmer culture and history; it is very valuable resource for Cambodians and all humanity to gain knowledge from the scripts and bas-reliefs," said Sambo Manara. Many experts consider Angkor Wat a living museum. Preserved are an immense collection of ancient fine Khmer arts from statues of gods in Brahmanism and Buddhism faith, Apsaras (celestial dancers), and tons of intricate bas relief meticulously etched on every wall, pillars, doors, grounds, roofs and towers.
Angkor Wat can be enjoyed all day long. The early morning at sunrise is the most popular time
to see these monuments. Its a memorable moment as the sun rises majestically over the five towers, the sky transformed into shades of orange, red, and yellow. There are several prime locations for viewing Angkor Wat during the dawn-around the main-gate, from the south and North libraries and by the North and South ponds.
As evening approaches, either of the North or South ponds are the preferred vantage points to witness the five towers bathed in the warm hues of the setting sun. Its a sight so breathtaking that many will concur with the Khmer adage, "do not let your life died easy if you have not seen days start or end at Angkor Wat."
The day is the best time to view the intricate bas-reliefs found at any temple. The walls depict the ancient Khmer history and mythology in the finest artistic stone carvings. Some recount ancient myths, such as the Ramayana, The Churning of the Sea of Milk, and the Mahabharata. The carvings have artistic integrity and beauty as well as leaving a historical legacy for future generations.
In the southwest of Thév (roofed walkway) of the Roung Tong on the first floor of Angkor Wat temple, there is a long carving. It illustrates the last section of Mahabharata, telling of the war between the Pandavas and Kauravas in the Koruksetrak Kingdom. Dr. Michael Trané is the former Under Secretary of State of the Ministry
of Culture and Fine Arts and an expert on the period. "The Mahabharata is a myth from India", he explains, "which began filtering into the kingdom in the first century A.D. In the pre Angkorian till the Angkorian period, Khmer people liked the Mahabharata and the Ramayana equally. But, after the Angkorian period, their interest in the Mahabharata declined".
Another one of the best and widely known epics of Indian mythology is the Brahmanist legend of the Churning of the Sea of Milk. The fable tells of the search for the (elixir of immortality Amrita, by the Asuras (demons) and Devatas (gods): The story is as valued in Khmer culture as it is on the Indian subcontinent. The mysterious but beautiful images of the story are commonly seen in Cambodian temples. In fact, Cambodia has adopted this religious epic, given it a distinctive flavor and made it the mother of the haunting Khmer icons, the Apsaras. The bas-relief on the South-east’s wall of Angkor Wat shows the scene where 92 demons and giants (the latter with their bulging eyes and helmets) surround the head of Vasuki, At his tail are 88 gods, distinguishable by their Khmer-shaped eyes and conical helmets. Vishnu himself appears both in his four-armed human incarnation and as Koromeak, the sacred turtle.
What is most haunting in this scene is the depiction of the ethereal Apsaras, floating above the sea and dancing for the gods and demons alike.
There are many bas-reliefs which illustrate Khmer people, their traditions and life, especially during the Angkorian era. H.E. Chum Ngoeun, Secretary of State for the Royal Palace, points to many fine examples which are to be found around Angkor Wat: The South-west gallery wall depicts the troops of King Suryavarman II marching, and his ceremonial judgment over his subjects. On the South-east wall are representations of heaven and hell. The Northern wall carvings show the warring between Krishna and Bana, and of the battlefield between the Gods and Demons; the next scene is from the epic Ream Ke (Ramayana), while the North-west wall illustrates the amazing battle field at Lanka city, between Krung Reap and Preah Ream.
All around the Angkor Wat temple are thousands of carved Apsara images: These Srey Tep Apsor or celestial dancer or Aspara gallery depict the angels called ‘Apsor or Tep Apsor’. In the Churning of the Sea of Milk, these angels have very important role in maintaining a happy and enjoyable world.
The Apsara figures were sculpted on the walls of temples in countless numbers, found from the bottom doors and walls to the highest parts of the temples. For Khmer people, Apsara are not only are celestial dancers but also the mothers of the people: Indeed, the name Kampuchea was derived from the historical amalgamation between Russey Kamusvory Mpouv, and Apsormera, which became Kampumera, Kampume, Kamme, Khme and then Khmer which we call it nowadays. The spectacle of the Apsara dance we see on the stage today, was derived from the sculptures at the Angkor Wat: It enables the sculptures of Angkor Wat to come alive in front of the viewers, in accordance to the idea of the Queen Kosomak Nearyroth who wished for the present and the future to benefit from the glories of the past.
According to Dr. Michael Trané, there are four basic reasons why the myths were carved on the walls of Angkor Wat. "Firstly, Khmer scholars believe that at that time, Khmers liked to study by physiology, rather than by literature. This is supported by the ancient Khmer proverb 'Listening to someone saying one thing hundreds of times is not the same as seeing it clearly, once'".
"Secondly, was to display the highly developed Khmer architecture. The third reason was to decorate Angkor Wat, as a great place of worship, the abode of a god. The final reason was to demonstrate to other nations that the Khmer civilization was one of the oldest on Earth, and had been influenced by the Brahmanism of India before the time of Christ..
H.E. Chuch Phoeun highlighted, "since the beginning of Angkor’s construction, there was no other monument on Earth as big as our amazing mountain temple." The site covered about 200 hectares area; in an east-west grid rectangle. The moat surrounding Angkor, measures 1.5 km long and 1.3 km wide, represents an ocean surrounding the Mount Meru.
Angkor Wat is arguably the best preserved of the many hundreds of Angkorian temples in the former Angkor Thom capital. It has survives time, the elements, wars and strife. It wasn't until the last century that its true value was understood. This ancient treasure was painstakingly recovered from the jungles. A major factor in its preservation had to do in part its registration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. Today, a sustainable development strategy is in place to protect the site for future generations.
For the visitor, this world wonder continues to inspire and impress. Whatever time of day, sunrise, midday or sunset, Angkor Wat is simply astonishing.
